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Crazy Kingdom

Jul 29 2008 | Views 1100 | Comments (62)

Crazy as it may sound; there is a republic within a republic in the Lithuanian capi... Expand

Crazy as it may sound; there is a republic within a republic in the Lithuanian capital called Vilnius. We came across it as we loitered around the beautiful city which has been accorded the World Heritage site title by UNESCO. The moment we crossed the old bridge over River Vilnele, a curious signboard greeted us. We were in the land of Uzupis, which has its own constitution, national anthem, a bishop, currency and four flags. Four flags! Exactly, there is one for each season.

The curious republic even has an Independence Day, which is celebrated on All Fools Day. Perhaps that is an indicator about the spoof that is called Uzupio. To me the word Uzupis sounded like something from the outer space; the kind of word one would come across while watching ‘Star Trek’.

‘It means ‘Beyond the River’, my guide enlightened me.

Considering that this small district rises up above a brook in the River Vilnia, the name made sense but the Uzupis Constitution didn’t. How had it all begun, I wondered.

The guide came to my rescue once again.

‘It began in 1997 when the district of Užupis declared itself to be an independent republic. It was all done as a joke,’ she said. ‘They appointed their President and a bishop; four flags were designed and a constitution was also drawn up. In addition, it has a palace, an army of 12 to defend it, and a National Day on the 1st of April.’

She flashed a cellophane wrapped copy of the constitution and also a currency note, which she told me, was good enough to buy a pint of beer on April 1^st. curious, I requested her to lead me through the old quarters of Uzupio. As we walked through the narrow, cobbled streets, she talked about the Uzupis.

The buildings were much shabbier than the ones in the old town. There was a run down look around us but there was a quaint look about the place that appealed to the creative soul in me.

‘It is the Montmartre of Vilnius,’ said Rasa, my guide. ‘It has the same Bohemian air and a dense sprinkling of artists and art galleries and studios.’

The story got more interesting as we strolled around the tiny little republic on the other side of River Vilnia. Steep hills rose picturesquely on one side of the area - the reason why artists loved the place. In the 16^th century, when the first bridge was built over the quiet river, the inhabitants who crossed over to the other side were mainly Jewish. The Jews disappeared after the Holocaust and their houses fell vacant. And then vagabonds, prostitutes and homeless Lithuanians began to occupy them. The tiny (less than a kilometer square area) turned into the most neglected part of the city.

A little later, the artists began trickling in, much as they did in Montmartre. Lively discussions, bohemian ways, irreverent attitudes, vibrant cafes sprang up in the dilapidated neighborhood. Not surprisingly, they chose Romas Lileikis, a poet, musician, and film director, as the President of Uzupis,

We had reached the main square and a statue of an angel with a trumpet greeted my eyes. To my romantic mind, it appeared as a beautiful piece of art.

‘The Uzupis sometimes call their district as the ‘Republic of Angels’, said Rasa. ‘This statue was placed here on 4^th April 2001. Before this was installed, the sculpture of an egg stood in this spot.’

We sauntered through the narrow streets and alley, tucked within which tiny shops were selling the most exquisite curios and souvenirs I had seen in Vilnius. The tag of being an artistic area was definitely well deserved, I thought, as I peeped into a couple of art galleries. Flower pots overflowing with colorful blooms transformed the run down place into a magical one. I was reminded of the pictures of little cottages in my first book of fairy tales, only Hansel and Gretel were missing.

Come April 1, the Uzupian Independence Day, and the little republic sees a string of concerts, parades and tomfoolery. And yes, you can buy a pint of beer with their currency.

Right ahead was the Uzupian constitution, written in three languages and glued to a crumbling wall on Paupio gatve, its 41 tenets staring at me. It is an indolent person’s dream. I cannot resist putting here the English translation -

Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, while the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone.

Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.

Everyone has the right to die, but it is not a duty.

Everyone has the right to make mistakes.

Everyone has the right to individuality.

Everyone has the right to love.

Everyone has the right to be not loved, but not necessarily.

Everyone has the right not to be distinguished and famous.

Everyone has the right to be idle.

Everyone has the right to love and take care of a cat.

Everyone has the right to look after a dog till one or the other dies.

A dog has the right to be a dog.

A cat is not obliged to love its master, but it must help him in difficult times.

Everyone has the right to sometimes be unaware of his duties.

Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not a duty.

Everyone has the right to be happy.

Everyone has the right to be unhappy.

Everyone has the right to be silent.

Everyone has the right to have faith.

No one has the right to use violence.

Everyone has the right to realize his negligibility and magnificence.

Everyone has the right to encroach upon eternity.

Everyone has the right to understand.

Everyone has the right to understand nothing.

Everyone has the right to be of various nationalities.

Everyone has the right to celebrate or not to celebrate his birthday.

Everyone shall remember his name.

Everyone may share what he possesses.

No-one can share what he does not possess.

Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.

Everyone is capable of independence.

Everyone is responsible for his freedom.

Everyone has the right to cry.

Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.

No-one has the right to make another person guilty.

Everyone has the right to be personal.

Everyone has the right to have no rights.

Everyone has the right to not be afraid.

Do not defeat.

Do not fight back.

Do not surrender.

Drifting up the hill at Uzupis we arrived at the Bernardine Cemetery, standing next to the old Bernardine nunnery. To say that this was the most stunning spot wouldn’t be an exaggeration. My desire to linger had to be crushed, much to my chagrin, since we were running out of time.

Interestingly, the first monument to be built by the Republic was one of Frank Zappa, in Vilnius. I think it is the only one in the world. Why Frank Zappa, I wondered, when he had no Lithuanian connection. But then, wonders will never cease, I guess.